November 2010

Remigiusz Baliński

The Galapagos archipelago is located near the Equator, in the Pacific Ocean. These isles of volcanic origin lie about 972 km (525 nmi) off the west coast of South America. They belong to Ecuador; their surface is 7.8 thousand sq km and is constantly changing.

The islands were born of the sea and never had any connection with the mainland. The oldest land is 4 million years old, while the youngest parts are still forming, since the islands are one of the most active volcanic areas in the world. The Galapagos Islands are best known for the giant Galapagos tortoise. In fact, the archipelago took its name from them, as ‘galápago’ is Spanish for tortoise. The name was given by Tomás de Berlanga, Bishop of Panama, whose ship came to these islands in 1535, pushed by ocean currents.

Galapagos Islands gained notoriety in the nineteenth century after Charles Darwin's expedition. He believed that through research on the archipelago he will introduce people to ‘that mystery of mysteries, the first appearance of new beings on Earth’. Materials acquired by Darwin, his experiences and observations formed the basis of scientific achievements and helped to formulate the theory of evolution and formed the basis of his work On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection.

Today almost the entire area of the Galapagos Islands (97%) is a national park, established in 1959. In 1998, the Galapagos Marine Reserve was established to protect the waters surrounding the islands. The islands are on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1978. In most places you can move only with a guide along designated routes. Leaving one island, shoes must be thoroughly disinfected in order not transport unwanted microorganisms from island to island. The Galapagos islands have two seasons: dry (lasting for July to December) and rainy (which lasts from January to June). Although the islands are on the Equator, the influence of the cold Peruvian Current makes the equatorial climate cool and dry. The air temperature rarely exceeds 27 º C during the day.

Each island has its own characteristics. The landscape is dominated by cliff edges, rocky islets, stone and sandy beaches, crater lakes and shallow lagoons. The highest point reaches 1859m above the sea-level. The Islands are famous, above all, due to the numerous endemic species. Some endemic species on the Galapagos are:

• the Galapagos land iguana
• the Santa Fe Island land iguana
• the Marine iguana (the only lizard able to live and forage in the sea)
• the Galapagos giant tortoise
• the Lava lizard or Tropidurus (7 species)
• the Galapagos gecko (6 species)
• 13 endemic species of Darwin's finches
• the Galapagos penguin
• the Flightless Galapagos Cormorant
• the Galapagos hawk
• the Galapagos owls
• the Galapagos mockingbird.

Interestingly, of the 89 species of birds nesting there, as many as 76 do not live anywhere else. All reptiles and mammals are endemic. Among mammals, there are two forms of pinnipeds, two rodents and one bat. Among the reptiles – 4 types of lizards (land and marine iguanas, lava lizards, geckos), a turtle and a snake. There are no amphibians and freshwater fish.

Diving on the islands is not the easiest, due to the relatively cold water – up to 15 º C - and very strong currents. These require the diver to be extra careful during ascent and descent, so as not to get smashed on the rocks. Underwater it is not any easier. In the passages between the islands there are such strong currents that the passage requires great effort and ingenuity.

The underwater flora is phenomenal. There are many species of shark, and you can actually see them underwater, not only read about them. Quite often you will encounter a shoal of spotted eagle rays or golden cownose rays, which seem like a flock of large underwater birds. Manta ray are also common. You can meet the big green, leathery sea turtles several times during the dive. And of course the ubiquitous seals, to cheer each dive with their frolics.

To sum up, this is the only such place on Earth.